Sunday, April 21, 2013

The Fish are Waiting; What Fly Do you Choose

You're on the water.  Ol' Trusty has new line and a fresh tippet.  You're ready to lock and load.  It's going to be a great day of fly fishing.  It's time to tie on the first fly of the day.  How do you choose?


1.  Size -- Nothing is more important.  The size should match what the average fish thinks is an average meal.  Big fish like big meals.  Hungry fish are more apt to hit anything. 

2. Action -- If whatever you are throwing has some kind of action, that can make it appear larger to a fish.  When used correctly, action does attract fish by itself, but the action may also make the fly look larger.

3. Color -- Generally, summertime calls for lighter colors.  As the weather cools, darker colors seem to work better.  This is a good rule to keep in mind, but also one of the first rules you should break. 

4. Realism -- Some flies look a lot closer to real food than others.  In my opinion, it does not matter at all if my flies look like food to me.  The question is whether it fools the fish.  I'm happy when they work, and I'm ready to move on when they do not. 

On a bad day, I will swap out flies until it's quitting time.  I'll try everything.  I'll even use flies that are not "appropriate" for the type of fish or conditions.

But I'll start with a plan and adjust as needed.

Saturday, April 20, 2013

Where Are You Casting Your Flies?

Where do you think the fish are hiding?  You want your fly to wander through as much of that area as possible.

Is the water moving?  With moving water, cast dry and wet flies upstream beyond where you think the fish are.  Let the fly and the line slap the water upstream where it won't disturb your prey.  Then let it drift into and through the zone that you are fishing.

Are you fishing deep?  On a lake, that's no problem.  Cast, and then wait.  On a river, though, if you need to get deep, time can be a factor.  You might not be able to cast far enough upstream to give your fly time to sink by the time it reaches your fishing zone.  About all you can do is add weight.  A heavier fly or some split shot may help.  Personally, if I'm using the proper line and the proper fly, I'll look for another place to fish if I can't get deep enough. 

Is the water silent?  With a dry fly, that means that your cast must place your fly in or beyond the optimum fishing zone.  If you place it in the zone, remember to take the slack out of your line to prepare for a strike.  If you place it beyond the zone, then you intend to drag it into the zone one way or another.  With a wet fly, cast a little beyond your fishing zone, wait for it to sink halfway, twitch your line a little to straighten your line, then let it sink to the level you want.

In all situations, your goal is to present your fly as well as possible and for as long as possible in the optimum fishing zone. 

If it is possible, any noise or disturbance that you make with your cast or straightening your line should be made before your fly reaches that zone.

If you can do that, then the only thing standing between you and a full creel is picking the proper fly.







Friday, April 19, 2013

Basic Fly Fishing Gear Needed by All Fishermen

You could buy out the store and still not catch fish.  On the other hand, you could fly fish with a cane pole and a section of clothesline if you present the fly correctly.

How much you buy or how much you pack on a trip depends on you, but unless you are going the cane-pole route, you absolutely need these items on your next fly fishing excursion:

a rod
a reel
line
a fly

Anyone who has that equipment can catch fish.

But anyone who has that equipment will probably also say that there are some more items that should be on a list of basic items.  Here are a few of them:

a good knife
a leader or a tippet
a multi-tool
a waterproof floating box for flies
split shot
line dressing
a hook remover
nippers
a creel

If you have the above items, you are now equipped to throw flies from dry land, but you will be a lot more comfortable if you are dressed properly.  Here are some clothing items to consider:

pants
shirt
vest
hat
footwear for water
sunglasses

Clothing should not fit tight.  The best will be light, strong material that lets you roll up and down the sleeves, legs, and a neck-protection panel on the hat.  Footwear should be for water.  Vests, shirts, and pants should have as many pockets as possible, and they may have zippered legs or panels to help you stay comfortable when it gets hot or cold.  Hats should have large brims.  Sunglasses that wrap around or that have side panels to reduce glare are wonderful

With all of the above items, you will have a pleasant experience the next time you go fishing from the bank.  To get into the water, a few more things are needed:

waders
wading shoes
floating equipment or floating cases, bags, or attachments so your equipment does float

Waders and wading shoes are made of tough material, but due to punctures and wear and tear, they will leak eventually; so a repair kit is nice.  Flotation issues may be minimal.  Manufacturers know that the ability to float is a great selling point, so they make items floatable when possible.  Anything that you carry in your hand must float because you will eventually have an accident and lose your grip. Phones, GPS receivers, and electronics have to be waterproofed.  That usually just means waterproof bags.  You will have lots of non-floating items in your pockets, such as nippers, tools, etc, but they are safe if your pockets have zips, Velcro or buttons or if you attach them to your vest with a cord.

With all of the equipment above, you can have a fine fishing experience.  The only things I would add would be food, water, a way to pack the gear in and out, and a way to keep your catch fresh.